Back in Recoleta....maybe

I moved this past week, from Palermo Viejo to an apartment about 8 blocks from where I lived for one month in 2005. I call it Recoleta but if many porteños are reading this block, I expect that to set off a firestorm of controversy. Recoleta is a barrio (neighborhood) officially designated by the government. Part of it, plus bits of other nearby barrios, is called Barrio Norte but exactly where the boundaries of Barrio Norte are is perhaps the most hotly contested issue of all time in Buenos Aires. Ask any two Argentinos and you'll probably get three opinions after an hour of furious debate. So am I in Recoleta or Barrio Norte? I've seen both appellations for this area and one listing even described it as being in Palermo!

From my balcony I have a lovely view up one of the most charming streets in the city, Pasaje Bollini. It's a mix of modern style edifices but with a lot of the old architecture beautifully preserved, on a narrow street of bricks. It has a very European look and feel, quiet and picturesque yet not far from several major streets and the subte (subway). If I walk three blocks in any of three directions, I'll arrive at one of the city's many parks. Village Recoleta (cinema, shopping, and restaurants) and the famous Recoleta cemetery are a five minute walk, as are several important museums and the national library. Right next door to my building is La Dama de Bollini, a very cool restaurant/tanguería/literary café. Also along the two short blocks of Pasaje Bollini are quite a few art galleries and the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.

I'm much happier here. The apartment is nicer than the one in Palermo and I just feel more at home in this area. Perhaps it's because it's familiar from my stay in 2005 or maybe I'm just more of a Recoleta person. The feel of different barrios is distinctive. To me, Palermo is less urban, the buildings tend to be 2 to 4 stories whereas in Recoleta they're more likely to be 6 to 12 stories, so there is a greater population density. It's also convenient in that I can walk to many parts of the city that I'm likely to visit often (Recoleta sits between Palermo and Microcentro, the downtown area). If I feel like a long stroll or if the subway is on strike, it would only take me 15-20 minutes to get downtown.

I've been busy buying things for the new apartment. Since I will be here for months, it makes sense to purchase some items to make it feel more like my home rather than a furnished temporary apartment, such as an extra lamp for reading, extra kitchenware, etc.

I've been looking for a quality espresso machine but they're hard to find here. Except for Saeco, the best international brands such as Gaggia, La Pavoni, and Rancilio, are impossible to find and the Saeco machines are double their U.S. prices due to the high tariffs on imports. Even if I buy a good Saeco machine, I'm not sure how I would grind my coffee. Espresso requires a fine consistent grind only obtainable with a burr grinder, not the little whirly-bird grinders seen in almost every kitchen supply shop. So far, I've only found one place that sells one burr grinder but it's a brand I never heard of so I'm a bit skeptical. I may end up buying a combination unit from Ariete, the Café Roma Deluxe, that includes a burr grinder in the espresso machine. Ariete is a brand largely unknown in the U.S. but appears to have a very good reputation internationally. I can't survive too much longer without my four daily cappucinos at home!