Out of the closet and into the attic

I went uptown to Belgrano for dinner on Saturday, joining my friends D., C., M., and some of their friends whom I had not met previously. The main drag on this side of town is Avenida Santa Fe, very popular and commercial all of its length, and after it passes through Barrio Norte and Palermo into Belgrano, its name changes to Avenida Cabildo. That's about all that changes, it continues to be the prime street for shopping and dining.

There were eight in our party at La Farola de Cabildo, a bustling restaurant that is part of a small chain in the capital. The fare is mostly traditional Argentine, emphasizing pastas and milanesas/supremas (breaded and fried slices of beef or chicken, similar to a schnitzel). Portions are generous and with the accompanying pan (bread) and papas (potatoes), it's unlikely anyone will leave hungry. I ordered the Pollo del Caribe, a chicken breast smothered in a strawberry sauce with peaches, pineapple, and pears. When it arrived at the table, the glistening scarlet sauce and fruit caused one of our group to comment that it appeared more like a postre (dessert) than a main dish. It was quite tasty but not as sweet as one might expect from the described ingredients. I was rather surprised to find it on the menu. Fruit and meat combinations seem like a culinary choice more apt for California than Argentina. Argentinos are not known for being particularly adventurous in dining; I'd guess that 90% of the menu items in non-ethnic restaurants are some variation of the basic beef-pasta-potaotes food pyramid.

One couple in our group (we'll call them Dorian and Gray) aroused genetic envy in me. Obviously they have an attic and store their portraits there. Both appear a good ten years younger than their ages, so they have either an Oscar Wilde magic going or DNA that could be patented. They were charming and friendly, as well as being very goodlooking as so many Argentinos are. A cute couple, obviously smitten with each other, they weren't timid about showing affection in public. Nothing flamboyant, just simple things such as holding hands or resting an arm on the other, but it's something not commonly seen here. Buenos Aires is probably the most gay-friendly city on the South American continent, with civil unions and anti-discrimination laws, yet gays are mostly ultra discreet in public.

I found it very refreshing. After so many years in Los Angeles, including the time I lived in the gay Oz of West Hollywood, it was nice to see a couple acting normally. In other words, acting heterosexually. Straights here aren't shy about handholding or kissing so there isn't any cultural taboo about public affection in general. Ergo, why shouldn't gay couples behave naturally? It's fairly controversial here, much as it was in California years ago: the old debate about creating a backlash if we are too visible and straight society starts feeling uncomfortable or threatened. Of course, I can't see whát's so distressing about tenderness but perhaps one has to feel macho before one's machismo can be threatened. Anyway, I applaud the lads and hope they keep on being true to themselves.

Price for 8 meals and 9 beverages: 192 pesos (US $62, about $7.75 per person).